1. What Was Your Goal?
My goal was to climb five 5.8 or better routes, at least one outdoors, by the end of November.
2. Why did you choose this as your goal?
Climbing has always been a sport that interested me, but one that I didn't really know where to get started on and felt a little intimidating because of the gear and lingo. Also, I've been trying to develop rescue skills like first aid, CPR, first responder, etc. because of my involvement with Amateur (Ham) Radio, the Red Cross, and CERT. I wanted to learn rope rescue techniques for wilderness rescues and as a first responder. Since I've never climbed, rappelled, or anything similar I decided to get into climbing to start off since I'd already been interested in it as a sport as well.
3. What was your skill level or background in relationship to the goal prior to starting?
I had never climbed, rappelled, or done anything anywhere close to this before. I also had some fear of heights too.
4. What preparations or training was done to accomplish it?
I went to Big Rock climbing gym 2-3 times a week and trained for several hours. I started with the bouldering walls to build my strength and technical moves. After getting into V3 problems I found a belay partner and started climbing the routes in the gym. The first few were difficult because of my fear of heights and lack of endurance. After 2-3 nights of routes I started doing 5.8s on a regular basis. Then my belay partner taught me to lead climb in preparation for the outdoor climb. I also had to significantly change my diet in order to keep from losing weight while training. (I'm 6 ft, 120 lbs.)
5. Where was the location that the goal was accomplished?
Big Rock Climbing Gym and Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. I sent 5-10 5.8 routes in the gym (even one 5.9) and then three 5.8 routes at Horseshoe.
Went to the gym at Big Rock last nite and got on the walls for the first time. Completed a few V0 routes on the bouldering walls. Feeling sore, but awesome this morning.
ReplyDeleteBack at Big Rock today. This time I brought along a friend who's starting climbing too. I showed her a few of the easier routes before we starting taking turns. I managed to nail the brown route which had been eluding me last time (either a V0 or V1) and then started trying a few V1 routes. Feeling much less sore and a better grip today. Good progress so far.
ReplyDeleteClimbing progression is quick and leaves a great sense of accomplishment. Keep up the great work.
ReplyDeleteFriday was an excellent day at the gym. I was there for about 3.5 hours, so my endurance and pacing seem to be improving. I sent seven new problems: 4 new V0s and 3 V1s. I also came very close to sending a V3 but just ran out of energy finally. Christian taught me about flagging which helped me a lot on the V3.
ReplyDeleteI've been really surprised and impressed with the progress I've made in just a week and a half. I noticed a big improvement in strength and endurance last nite. I'm going to start working a lot more on technique next week and hopefully start sending some V3 problems in the process. Also, I'll be picking up my climbing harness next week so that I can start working on the big walls.
Sent my first climbing route Tuesday nite, a 5.6 at the gym. I realized that I'm apparently still a little afraid of heights in the process. I have to give Brad at Big Rock some props here though. He was my belayer for the route and gave me some awesome moral support while I was up on the wall, he's the best.
ReplyDeleteAlso got some bouldering in on Monday. There were three new V1-2 problems I sent, along with that V3 that I was after last week.
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Yeah buddy. You're moving right along. Congratulations on your first route. Now it's time to keep training and get outside.
ReplyDeleteThe lack of updates the past two weeks has been due to some sort of zombie flu that had me incapacitated for a while. I managed to miss the rock trip and nearly two full weeks at the gym. This week though I was finally able to make it back to the gym and get re-acclimated. Thankfully I managed to not lose too much strength. I sent a few new routes and even on-sighted a new V0/V1 that showed up while I was gone.
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Sickness has been going around. We understand completely. There is still plenty of time to get your climb on. Thanks for the update and great work on the on sight.
ReplyDeleteThree nights a week is working out well and I'm continuing to make progress in strength, balance, and technique. I on-sighted another ~V1 and sent several new problems that were set while I was sick. I'm working on V4 problems now and plan to start doing more wall climbing this week. I feel like my stamina and strength are where they need to be to start making good progress on the top rope. We'll see how it goes to-nite. The one problem is that I don't have a belay partner, so I'll have to see if there's someone who will help me out.
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The last two nights at the gym have made major progress on my goal. Thursday I met Matt from the Take A Hike group and did some wall climbing with him. Sent a 5.6 and 5.7 that night. Last night I sent three 5.8 routes and seconded a 5.9 overhang lead climb with Boone. Awesome progress, with an outdoor climb in the near future to put this goal away handily.
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Success! I took a trip to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Saturday with Matt and we got to do some awesome outdoor routes. I on-sighted a 5.7 and two 5.8s. I sent Green Goblin (5.8) the first try, but it wasn't clean. I had to stop and rest for a few seconds about half-way up the 65 foot route. The sandstone was nice to climb and had a good feel and grip to it. Also, I lead climbed all four routes that day.
ReplyDeleteIt feels good to have accomplished my goal and even learned to lead climb in the process. The month isn't over yet either. I'm hoping to lead climb a nice overhung 5.9 in the gym either by the end of the month, or early December.
Big thanks to Megan, Matt, Dynamic Earth, the guys/gals at Big Rock, the Take A Hike group, and everyone I climbed with over the past couple months.
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Good job David!! I knew you'd make your goal :)
ReplyDeleteStill going to the gym regularly. I've been training for the 5.9 overhang with some overhung bouldering problems and hang-board exercises. I was going to go for it last night but I ran out of time and didn't have a lead belayer. I practised the first 1/3 of the route several times since it stays low to the ground and I can use the pads. I was able to fly up to the second bolt in no time by the end of the night, so I should be able to nail this thing without a problem next week.
ReplyDeleteDavid, you have been selected as a potential finalist. Check your email for details. If you have not received and email, please send an email to goals@dynamicearth.net at your earliest convenience.
ReplyDeleteFinally got that 5.9 lead climb to-nite! After a nice 4-6 meter whipper I reset and sent it completely clean on the next attempt. It feels good to still be making progress after completing my goal. I'll be enjoying climbing for years to come.
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